I am in love with the idea of painting filigree. Not just because it can give it a colorful look, but it can also give old filigree with a patina new life.
I figured if I love this method this much, other people might too. So I wanted to make a step by step guide for painting filigree. I started off with an old pair of earrings that had begun to tarnish, a pair of gold toned butterflies.
First, I took the findings off. In this case, the earring hooks. You want to make sure the pieces are clean, so the paint adheres well. On top of my work surface, I laid down a sheet of wax paper. I find it is the easiest surface to work on. Plus it makes clean up simple. You just ball the paper up and throw away when the project is finished.
Once the findings were off, the wax paper was down, and the piece was clean, I got my paint brush and paint ready. Using a regular paint brush leaves streaks. I learned that the hard way when I first tried hand painting filigree. A sponge is much easier and gives a smoother outcome. I prefer the semi circle sponge brush (on the left) because it gives me a flat surface. But you might prefer another type, such as the one on the right. You can find either at practically any store that sells craft supplies, even at Target or Walmart if your store has a craft section.
For paint, I used a basic acrylic paint. I know some people like to use enamel instead. But if sealed properly, either will work. For this project, I used FolkArt Acrylic Paint in Daffodil Yellow. Acrylic paint can be found in the same places you would find the sponge brushes.
When painting, simply dab the sponge across the filigree in an even layer. If you have a piece that has etching or indentations (like mine does with the detail on the body of the butterfly), sponge the paint into the crevices then gently wipe with a paper towel. The paint in the depths will stay, while the paint on the surface is wiped away. Then just apply the paint by dabbing the sponge.
I always put at least two coats of paint on each side of the piece. For the butterfly, I applied two coats. You want to let the paint dry between each coat. My paint bottle advised an hour dry time; however, I waited about ten minutes until the paint was dry to the touch. It is important for the paint to dry in between, especially when you turn the piece over to paint the other side.
If the piece you are painting has a dark patina or oxidation, painting the piece with a layer of white first will help the finished product stay true to the paint color. An dark metal will not easily become a pale blue without a coat of white first, for example.
I know the jump from gold to bright yellow does not seem like a big leap, so I felt the need to show one butterfly painted, while the other remained gold.
Once your pieces are completely painted, it is important to let them dry overnight or several hours. If you do not let them dry for a long period of time, you run the risk of having the sealer make the paint run a little. I learned that the hard way when I first tried hand painting filigree.
When you get ready to seal the filigree, make sure you have a well ventilated space to work in. I would advise doing it outside if you can. Since my butterflies need to be sealed on both sides, I hung them up to spray them. I used clear thread and looped them over a dowel rod.
Please follow the directions that come on your can of sealer. I use PLAID Clear Acrylic Sealer Gloss. I have used it to for years on various projects and just love it. The directions will specify how to spray and how long to let dry between coats. I like to use at least three coats, so that you get an even glossy finish. Each piece is different though. You made need more coats or less.
Let the piece dry for at least an hour before putting any findings back on. Then you have a brand new looking finished piece.
I know it takes a little time, but if you love a piece of jewelry that is tarnishing, it is a wonderful way to give it new life.
